Sewing Glossary

Easestitching

A row of the longest stitch available on your machine, this usually sewn at 4/8" (1.2cms) from the raw edge on a single layer of fabric. This is needed when there is fullness in one side of the seam (pattern piece) and must be pulled up (leave long ends on the thread and pull up the bobbin thread) slightly to fit the shorter seam (pattern piece). When inserting a sleeve two rows of easestitching to used one at 4/8" (1.2cms) and another at ¾" (6/8" or 1.8cms).

Interfacing

Interfacing plays a supporting role in almost every garment. It is an inner layer of fabric used to shape and support details like collars, cuffs, waistbands, pockets, lapels and buttonholes. Even simple styles often need interfacing to add stability to necklines, facings or hems. Interfacing adds body to garments and helps keep them crisp through repeated washing and wearing.

Staystitch

Is a line of stitching sewn ½" (1.2cms) from the raw edge on a single layer of fabric. This is needed on curves and angles such as necklines, hiplines or waistlines to prevent them from stretching while being handled.

Topstitching

Straight stitching on the right side of the garment. Sew from the right side with all-purpose thread or topstitching thread. Lengthen the stitch slightly for a more pronounced stitch.

Understitching

Straight stitching used to keep facings from rolling to the right side. Trim, clip and press the seam allowance towards the facing. Then stitch on the right side of the facing, close to the seamline through all the seam allowances.